Vegetable oils are not equal:
- Sunflower oil is widely used in the natural industry as a filler ingredient. Given its low cost, it often tops the list and allows for the dilution of active ingredients (both to reduce manufacturing costs and to address the rarity or even shortage of certain oils like cosmetic argan) while allowing the finished product to remain natural... with few benefits for the skin.
- Coconut oil on the face clogs pores. Its molecules are too large.
The use of natural products such as vegetable oils is crucial in cosmetic care, as they determine not only aesthetic objectives, but also the performance, safety, and well-being of users. Some oils are suitable for all skin types, while others offer specific properties, acting as true nutraceuticals or dermatological correctors, which distinguish the quality of the products. For example:
- Sweet almond oil, which is primarily composed of oleic acid, provides nourishing and soothing support for the surface layers of the epidermis. However, its texture leaves a greasy film on the skin, which may not be suitable for blemish-prone skin.
- On the other hand, rosehip oil, rich in alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3), is specifically chosen to treat skin imperfections and improve the appearance of the skin. Jojoba oil, similar to the skin's natural sebum, is selected for its moisturizing and antioxidant properties, thanks to its composition of various vitamins (A, B, C, D, E, K, PP).
Vegetable oils are composed primarily of fatty acids, along with a small amount of unsaponifiables, which are rich in active ingredients beneficial to the skin. Unlike esterified, hydrogenated, or mineral oils, vegetable oils retain these unsaponifiables, which do not turn into soap during chemical reactions. These unsaponifiables vary in proportion depending on the oil, generally ranging from 1 to 5%, but can reach up to 10% for shea butter and even 50% for jojoba oil.
- Native to Mexico, jojoba adapts well to the arid conditions of the desert, making its extraction easier than other vegetable oils. This ecological adaptation makes it an attractive choice from a sustainability perspective.
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