Nourishing the skin from within - Applied nutricosmetics

Applied nutricosmetics

The skin is the body's largest organ. It protects us from the environment. It can eliminate substances, such as perspiration. It can also absorb certain substances, such as magnesium from an Epsom salt bath. But above all, it is the visible part of our body, and therefore, through the skin, we can see the vitality and health of the body.

They say the eyes are the window to the soul. Well, skin is a reflection of our health. If you see someone with a gray complexion, you immediately think their health is poor.

Can we help our skin? Nourish it from within to maximize its capacity, tone, reduce wrinkles and other signs of aging?

Yes, absolutely. Ingredient by ingredient, with mechanism of action to support it, you'll find tools to help your skin become more radiant, firmer, and who knows, younger...

Toolbox

Green tea

Green tea contains polyphenols called catechins. These molecules are absorbed and bind directly to tissues and protect them. In the skin and dermis, they reduce free radical damage and prevent the formation of cross-links. These cross-links are the result of aging but also the action of the sun. We are talking about actinic damage (due to the sun). Their appearance in the collagen of the dermis leads to a loss of suppleness and an acceleration of wrinkle formation. Catechins reduce their formation, accelerate their degradation and protect against agents that increase their formation such as UV rays in overdose and chronicity.

Regular consumption of green tea protects against sunburn and UV damage. ¹ In addition, a clinical study found that a catechin-rich drink consumed for 12 weeks visibly and measurably improved skin structure. There was an improvement in elasticity, roughness, scaling, dermal density, and hydration. ²

Consuming tea or extracts rich in catechins could also help normalize sebum and therefore be useful both for skin health (hydration) but also for reducing and treating acne. ³

Green tea may even slow down skin aging. ⁴

A cup of green tea contains +/- 200-269 mg of catechins but can vary depending on the quality (powder bags contain very little), brewing time and water temperature. The presence of milk inhibits the absorption of catechins. See: https://www.thevert.com/catechins/

Cocoa and chocolate

Cocoa is another nutricosmetic avenue. The flavanols it contains are in the same family of polyphenols as those in green tea. We can therefore expect to see similar effects. The consumption of cocoa and/or chocolate in clinical studies has shown the ability to help increase internal or endogenous photoprotection, that is, the skin's ability to resist UV aggression, while benefiting from the beneficial effects of sun exposure (vitamin D, NO). ^5,6 In addition, we learn that flavanols inhibit the damage-causing enzyme (MMP-1) that is stimulated by UV exposure, which confers internal sun protection. ⁷

Consumption of a flavanol-rich drink (320 mg) resulted in significant improvements in wrinkles and skin elasticity, as well as improved sun tolerance in participants of a 24-week study. ⁸

Flavanols also have anti-inflammatory effects ⁹ and improve microcirculation in the dermis. ¹⁰

As with tea, consuming milk at the same time as cocoa inhibits their absorption. Consuming 20g per day appears to be sufficient to observe long-term benefits.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C is involved in the production of our collagen. It accelerates healing and reduces capillary fragility. In addition, it increases resistance to infections. ¹¹ The absorption of vitamin C by skin cells and its anti-free radical (antioxidant) effect are dose-dependent. It has the ability, like green tea, to reduce the formation of cross-links between collagen fibers in the skin.

In a clinical study, 33 volunteers took 100 mg/day for 4 weeks. Researchers found a 22% increase in free radical-scavenging activity. In those receiving 180 mg/day, this same protective activity was increased by 37%. ¹²

The effective dose is believed to start at 200 mg up to several grams per day, in divided doses, with food.

Collagen

A star ingredient that's on the rise, hydrolyzed collagen deserves some attention. In our bodies, collagen is the body's main structural protein. It's found in the dermis of the skin, in tendons and ligaments, in connective tissue, etc. In short, everywhere the body needs to hold itself together. If you cook, collagen is the gelatin in your broths. This gelatin is extracted collagen that is hydrolyzed for better absorption and solubility. Hydrolyzing means cutting it into small pieces. With age, our bodies decrease its production and its ability to keep it functional. So, less collagen, more cross-links.

Several clinical studies show that the consumption of different collagen products has an impact on the skin, the tone of the dermis and the reduction of wrinkles. ¹³ For example, a group of 114 participants aged between 45 and 65 years used either hydrolyzed collagen or a placebo for 8 weeks. From the ^4th week, a significant improvement in wrinkles was measured, particularly around the eyes. The skin content of procollagen type 1 and elastin (2 structural proteins of the skin) increased by 65% ​​and 18% respectively. ¹⁴

In another study combining collagen with hyaluronic acid, there was an improvement in wrinkles, dryness, and reduced flaking. ¹⁵

Depending on the different products, the dose can vary between 2.5 g (combined formula with other ingredients) up to 10 g per day.

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid (hyaluronate or HA) is a molecule that we manufacture and is found mainly in the dermis and joints. It acts as a lubricant in the joints. In the skin, its action is more complex. It fills the spaces between cells and therefore improves tissue cohesion and the flexibility/suppleness of the skin. It also helps with hydration by allowing it to be retained in the tissues and preventing its loss by the epidermis. Like collagen, HA production decreases with age. https://www.santescience.fr/acide-hyaluronique/

Despite its size, HA is absorbed and migrates into the skin. ¹⁶ When combined with a collagen supplement, HA reduces the signs of skin aging. ¹⁵ Other clinical studies confirm these effects on the skin and the reduction of age-related damage. ¹⁷

The dose ranges from 25 mg to 200 mg per day.

Omega-3

The effects of omega-3 on the skin are numerous: ¹⁸

• Maintenance of the barrier function of the stratum corneum,

• Maturation of cells and differentiation of the stratum corneum,

• Inhibition of inflammation and improvement of inflammation resolution,

• Healing effect,

• Promotion of programmed natural cell death (Apoptosis) particularly of skin cancer cells,

• Photoprotection: raising the sunburn threshold.

The photoprotective effect of Omega-3 is confirmed both in observational studies for fish consumption ¹⁹ and in clinical and mechanistic studies. ^20,21

There are two main classes of Omega-3: long-chain and plant-based. Plant-based Omega-3, alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), has specific functions such as beta-oxidation (an energy source) and the production of cell membranes. A small portion of ALA can be converted into long-chain.

Long-chain fatty acids (EPA and DHA) are found almost exclusively in cold-water oily fish. The advantage of these molecules is their ability to act directly on inflammation with very little transformation. This is why EPA and DHA appear to be much more effective as a treatment supplement for inflammatory conditions as varied as autoimmune diseases and eczema. For the skin, as soon as inflammation is reduced or normalized, we see an improvement in its quality, less redness, less sensitivity to all kinds of aggressors, etc.

ALA also has protective effects on the skin. Those with the highest blood levels (top quarter) are 35% more resistant to the sun than those with the lowest levels (bottom quarter). ¹⁹

Useful doses of long-chain omega-3s for skin in clinical studies start at 1000 mg EPA+DHA per day. For ALA, 1/2 tsp of flaxseed oil (2.2 g, approximately 50% ALA) taken orally daily helps with skin hydration. ²³

Carotenes

Carotenes are the yellow, orange, and red pigments found in foods. Several of them have been shown to help the skin better resist aggressors, particularly UV rays.

Lycopene

The red of tomato, pink grapefruit and pink guava. It acts as an anti-inflammatory and as an internal sunscreen. ^24,25 Its regular consumption helps reduce the formation of sunburn by 40% ²⁶ and provides a sun protection factor of around 4. ²⁷ This 4 may seem small compared to commercial sunscreens and creams, but since lycopene does not disappear with perspiration or swimming like the ingredients in creams, it is a real 4, i.e. 4 times longer before the symptoms of exposure appear (redness, sunburn, wrinkles and other actinic damage).

Lycopene increases UV tolerance (amount of UV before erythema occurs) and reduces cell damage. This damage is due to the activation of the skin-degrading enzyme (MMP-1) that is induced (activated) by UV exposure. ^28,29 Lycopene is absorbed and its concentration in the skin can be measured. ²⁹ It is better absorbed when the tomato is cooked compared to raw. ³⁰

It is estimated that the useful dose starts at 10 mg per day, or approximately 10 ml of tomato paste (concentrate).

Astaxanthin

It is the pigment responsible for the orange color of salmon and seafood. It is extracted from an algae ( Haematococcus pluvialis ) for supplements. Doses as low as 2 mg per day help improve skin barrier integrity (aid, among other things, better hydration) and elasticity to counteract sun damage. ³¹ At 6 mg per day for 8 weeks, improvements in crow's feet (small lines near the eyes), wrinkles, elasticity, and transdermal water loss were seen. ³²

Other carotenes, beta carotene, cryptoxanthin, lutein ³³ , etc. all play similar, though less powerful, roles in protecting the skin.

Doses vary depending on the substance. 2 to 6 mg per day for astaxanthin. Minimum 6 mg per day for lutein.

Vitamin D

We know that vitamin D is mainly synthesized in the skin by the action of ultraviolet B rays, but what is less well known is that this same vitamin D increases the skin's resistance to the harmful effects of overexposure to UV rays. This could partly explain why sunburns are more frequent and more violent when our skin is sun-starved in the spring. ³⁴ To demonstrate this point, researchers gave a massive dose of vitamin D (200,000 IU in a single dose) before UV exposure (experimental sunburn) or a placebo. They observed a reduction in inflammation, fewer dead cells, and more apoptosis (natural or programmed death) of damaged cells. In short, better resistance against UV damage and a greater benefit from exposure. ³⁵

Zinc

Zinc is known for its role in immunity. It is also necessary in the maintenance of skin cells, nails and hair. Less well known is its role in regulating inflammation ^36,38 . It is necessary for the metabolism of essential fatty acids (omega 3) ³⁷ and helps prevent degenerative skin diseases ³⁸ . Zinc is also necessary to activate the body's natural antioxidant defenses (superoxide dismutase cofactor ZnSOD). ³⁹

The recommended daily intake of zinc is 8 mg for women and 11 mg for men. Therapeutic doses range from 15 to 30 mg per day. When using a supplement at doses of 15 to 30 mg over a long period of time, it is suggested to add a small amount of copper (copper to zinc ratio between 1:11 and 1:15), or between 900 mcg (recommended daily intake) and 2 mg per day.

Selenium

Selenium is an essential cofactor in our body's antioxidant pathways such as glutathione peroxidase. Se deficiency increases UV damage. ⁴⁰ The dietary intake is set at 55 mcg. A significant intake (food and/or supplement), therefore higher than the RDA, improves skin tolerance to irritants and allergens. ⁴¹ The usual dose is 200 mcg in the form of selenomethionine and/or Se-rich yeast. ⁴²

Silica

Silica is best known for its effect on hair and nails. ⁴³ In fact, it is the cohesion nutrient. It works to hold the body's proteins together, as seen in improving hair strength and reducing brittle nails. ⁴⁴ In animals, silica improves collagen synthesis, density, and concentration in the skin. ⁴⁵ It also appears to have anti-inflammatory ⁴⁶ and antioxidant ⁴⁷ effects. The dose of silica varies between 20 and 100 mg per day.

The microbiota

All of these nutrients and many more affect the skin, its health, integrity, and even its youthful appearance. But they all need to pass through the gut to have any effect. Is there a link between the health of the microbiota (gut flora) and skin health?

It is known that there is a very important link between the porosity of the intestine (permeable or hyperpermeable intestine < leaky gut syndrome>) and the appearance of skin disorders from eczema (atopy) to psoriasis. ⁴⁸

The quality of your diet in general will therefore play a key role in the quality of your skin. Eating the most natural, least processed foods, without additives, preservatives, colors, etc. is certainly the first step towards radiant skin. ⁴⁹ Moreover, preservatives are first and foremost antimicrobials. Since the microbiota is mainly composed of bacteria, it makes sense not to eat foods that are harmful to our beneficial bacteria (Harmful Food...).

The use of probiotics becomes another ally for skin health and complexion quality. These good bacteria help reduce intestinal porosity and the symptoms of atopy. ⁴⁸ They upregulate the levels of interleukin 10 (IL-10), this anti-inflammatory and protective factor, thus improving the barrier function of the mucous membranes and skin and giving them a healthy appearance and a radiant complexion ( glow of health ). ⁵⁰

The microbiota is in constant interaction with the gut, the immune system, and also the nervous system. We are talking about the gut/brain axis . This interaction goes much further because probiotic bacteria also have an anti-inflammatory and potentially hormonal normalizing effect. They act to break the vicious pro-inflammatory cycle and stimulate tissue health, including the skin. We will now talk about the gut/brain/immunity/skin axis. ^50,51

Hydrolyzed keratin

The epidermis is made up of cells that start at the basement membrane of the skin and migrate to the exterior. These cells are rich in a specific protein called keratin. This keratin is the same protein that makes up hair and nails. It has a particular structure rich in sulfur-containing amino acids, which gives it great strength. Researchers have found that if this hydrolyzed, therefore absorbable, protein is provided to the body, it incorporates it into hair and nails and makes them stronger. To demonstrate this, they gave 50 people a supplement of 500 mg of keratin and vitamins and minerals per day or a placebo for 90 days.

They found that hair and nails were stronger. There was less hair loss when washing. The hair's luster and shine were also improved. ⁵²

For skin, the same team of researchers conducted a similar study in which 50 people received either 500 mg of hydrolyzed keratin with vitamins and minerals or a placebo for 90 days. Using specialized devices, they measured hydration levels, elasticity levels, and wrinkle depth. In the placebo group, all parameters deteriorated. In the keratin group, there was a significant improvement (p < 0.001) of ⁵³ :

• 11% more hydration

• 12% more elasticity

• Significant reduction in wrinkles

• 19% more skin protein content

Final word

The skin is a complex organ that deserves to be addressed from the inside out. An imbalance, a deficiency, stress, or a polluted (pro-oxidant) environment can negatively affect our skin. Since this skin is an organ that is an integral part of our body, our self, any damage to the skin is therefore a damage to our health and other organs. You now have a better understanding of what can negatively and positively affect your skin.

It's up to you to act beautifully.

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