Answers to your beauty skin questions by understanding the absorption mechanism

Answers to your beauty skin questions by understanding the absorption mechanism

ABC of Skin Physiology

Mechanisms and absorption pathways in cosmetics

A cosmetic product passes through the epidermis passively, in several stages. The active ingredients in cosmetics must first dissolve in the hydrolipidic film to free themselves from their excipient, then begin their journey through the layers of the epidermis. For some molecules, such as essential oils, absorption continues all the way to the dermis.

Penetration

• It is through the intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum that the product begins to distribute these active molecules.
• When the epidermis is well hydrated, the molecules continue their release into the deeper layers of the epidermis. This diffusion is called permeation.
• Some smaller molecules pass through the epidermis and come into contact with the blood capillaries.

Permeability

• The thicker the stratum corneum, the less permeable it is.
• The balanced hydrolipidic film allows the absorption of cosmetic active ingredients.
• Occlusive masks increase the absorption rate.
• The lipophilic vehicle (vegetable oils) allows the active molecules to be transported to the deeper layers of the epidermis.
• The hydrophilic vehicle (gels) increases the hydration of the surface layers, facilitating the absorption of lipophilic active molecules.

The temperature

• When the skin is stimulated by massages, creating vasodilation of the subcutaneous capillaries, it promotes the diffusion of active molecules and can reach the dermis (Systemic action).

Exfoliants

• In addition to refining the stratum corneum, which allows for better assimilation of active ingredients, exfoliants stimulate the synthesis of collagen and elastin as well as cell renewal, a precursor to better assimilation of Neutra-cosmetics

Excellent assimilation of lipids up to the dermo-epidermal barrier

(Biblio. Ref.: P. Franchomme (Author), R. Jollois (Author), D. Pénoël (Collaborator), Aromatherapy exactly. Roger Jollois Edition, January 1 ^, 1990, 490 pages, ISBN: 978-2878190014

• Vegetable oils are naturally hydrolyzed by skin enzymes, particularly those that facilitate the reaction of organic molecules such as vitamin B. However, vitamin B is found in high concentrations in virgin vegetable oils from the first cold pressing, which accelerates their absorption rates, carrying the essential oils to the basal layer of the epidermis. Once the epidermal barrier is crossed, the essential oils cross the basal membrane to reach the dermis. It is from the dermis that essential oils play their main roles. The first is to maintain or restore homeostatic activity (capacity to maintain relative stability of the ambient environment). The second relates to the aromatic components.

Transcutaneous absorption by osmotic/thermal pressure

• In order to maximize cellular nutrition, certain application techniques allow for optimal results.
• Heat is one of the techniques often used to stimulate skin absorption. By applying it in reverse with cold, the action is multiplied, thanks to the reaction of capillary vasodilation/vasoconstriction/dynamic gymnastics effect.
• Osmotic pressure occurs when the skin is soaked to the point of saturating its epidermal cells with colloidal water (gel + floral water). With the application of a hot thermal mask, over the soaking, intercellular exchange is greatly facilitated and once again allows absorption.

Reference :

Amandine Georgel, Transcutaneous penetration of active substances: application in dermocosmetology. Pharmaceutical Sciences. 2008. ffhal-01732837, https://hal.univ-lorraine.fr/hal-01732837

Answers to your specific questions

Various skin problems are linked to dehydration.

When is skin dehydrated?

She feels tight, or she has a dull complexion. Pores can be dilated without excess sebum. Milia also indicates a lack of hydration, as do multiple small imperfections, which are synonymous with a lack of communication.

What treatment protocol is suitable for dehydrated skin? Knowing that:

• We proceed more intensively at the beginning to regain balance (and get results quickly), then the routine can be lightened and other concerns addressed.
• We always work on our sensitivity before going further into protocols and active ingredients (we do not address anti-aging on irritated skin).
• We adapt our care according to our environment and the seasons: in the morning, for example, we prepare our skin for the cold (the skin must be silky, velvety and not oily) and in winter, dehydration is more present, etc.
• Follow the steps carefully (they sometimes seem to be mixed up): 1-cleansing (and/or soaking) & washcloth. 2-floral water. 3-moisturizer. 4-serum and, if necessary, butter on the skin coat.
• We don't put too much product on, we rub it in well, and at the end, we make sure not to leave the skin oily (if this is the case, we spray the floral water again, then rub it into the skin with full hands).

Actions & formulas for your other concerns:

• Atony : choose Phytocomplex, Tensor Fluid & Jasmine Rose Serum and take the time to massage.
• Deep wrinkles : opt for dermabrasion with Exfopur; every week, take the time to smooth out wrinkles with Gua Sha , and choose the same formulas as for atony: collagen-type mask, every morning, if possible with vanilla shea butter .
• Mature skin : same.
• Blackheads : Cleanse well with the Cleansing Oil to allow the sebum to be released, drain the pores by adding a drop of Exfopro to the Cleansing Oil , massage the area well, then rinse well and complete with Exfopur as a mask for a few minutes, then complete with your beauty ritual.
• Milia : Cleanse well with Cleansing Oil to soften, use Exfopur locally and as part of a beauty ritual, always use a moisturizer followed by the serum.
• Menopause & sensitivity, loss of density : opt for Immortelle serum , Hydralux moisturizer and Vanilla Shea to boost collagen.

Complementary solutions:

• Optimize your care with massage techniques, be aware of your facial expressions, be diligent in your care rituals to optimize their effects and achieve your goals.

Examples of customer messages that we will respond to directly:

" During a live broadcast, Nathalie gave me a protocol for blackheads, enlarged pores, and redness. But now, I often get pimples and my skin is dry; I'd like to review my protocol ."

" Hello Nathalie, I'd like to talk to you about my forehead. Every morning, it's a little oily, but at the same time, it's a little dry and has little bumps... which I remove with Exfopur, but I'd like your opinion, please. Thank you ."

“ I've had a small sebum pimple (not a milia) for a year, and I've tried a lot of things without success .”