Retinol, retinoic acid: retinoids
Valuable retinoids are naturally present in virgin rosehip as transretinoic acid or tretinoin. Known to be helpful in cases of sun-damaged skin & age spots as well as in skin with pimples & enlarged pores, it is preferred in its natural form because it lacks the negative or even irritating effects of this component when applied in isolation & concentrated form.
Jean-Yves's review of rosehip and retinoids here , in this live broadcast: "according to the study Skin aging and its treatment, in veiled terms, they talk (to help the skin fight against aging) about antioxidants, nutrition. However, this study dates from 2007 and life has changed since 2007, there are discoveries that have appeared and of course, a bit like in everything we discuss, there is the pure and hard medical and there is what we and the people who listen can do themselves.
Rosehip is a completely trippy oil for the skin, healing. The famous retinoic acid that we find (and that we find in medications really for acne, for wrinkles) in rosehip, in tiny doses but it is there all the same!
At a tiny dose, there will be an impact on the skin's ability to return to its place and that's what's fascinating.
Nutrition: Carotenes (lycopene from tomatoes, all the beta-carotenes in this world, cryptoxanthin found in certain vegetables and which is brown.), if we eat them, as they are lipophilic, they will lodge in the fatty tissues. And one place where we all have fatty tissue is in the dermis (the hypodermis) and there, we see that it is possible that these molecules which have a photoactive effect will give my tissue a natural defense capacity that we have difficulty quantifying because the figures seem absurd (3-4 SPF) but at the same time, when we say a real sun protection factor, it is theoretically the number of times that you can multiply your safe exposure time. 60 does not work anymore, we have reached absurdity; Let's say that a redhead, white, transparent and who never tans, burns and has freckles, is the perfect type who will burn; if we increase her time by 4, instead of burning in 4-5 minutes, she will burn in 20 minutes and maybe half an hour, bliss!
And is that enough to get vitamin D? Bingo, that's the point!
Retinoic acid helps the skin synthesize the production of new cells.
Rosehip contains carotenes, it is pink; these substances have an anti-inflammatory and cell-protective effect (a bit like putting aloe on it, which has been documented to reduce sunburned cells. Aloe on the skin is good for sunburn because it reduces damage in addition to having a cooling effect, there are some studies on this).
With a product like this, which is very complex, we can nourish the skin to strengthen and reduce damage.
Pharmaceutical-strength retinoic acid will stimulate the production of new cells through a similar pattern to irritation. It's not just an irritant. There are two substances in cosmetics that work on the same principle:
- retinoic acid and its derivatives (retinol, vitamin A palmitate minus the effect but the same principles)
- and AHAs
These substances stimulate the production of new cells through irritation: the skin peels off the old cells and underneath, there are new cells.
"Wrinkles and pigmentary changes are directly associated with photoaging and are considered its most prominent cutaneous manifestations. Such photodamage represents the cutaneous signs of premature aging. In addition, the deleterious consequences of chronic sun exposure, particularly various forms of photoinduced skin cancer, are also related to both acute and chronic sun exposure. The only known strategies aimed at preventing photoaging include sun avoidance, the use of sunscreens to block or reduce skin exposure to UV radiation, the use of retinoids to inhibit collagenase synthesis and promote collagen production, and the use of antioxidants." https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17200942/ J Patho 2007 Jan;211(2):241-51. doi: 10.1002/path.2098. Skin aging and its treatment , L Baumann PMID: 17200942 DOI: 10.1002/path.2098
However, when it comes to microdosing, some of this is true, but we can't document it in the same way as clinically. We can't say that it inhibits the collagenase enzyme, but objectively and empirically, we see an improvement in skin texture.
What is collagenase? All words ending in "ase" are enzymes.
Collagen is the protein that makes up the structure of the skin and we have enzymes in our bodies that break it down in order to recycle it.
Collagenase will break down the collagen to allow it to be replaced with new ones. We recycle ourselves all the time. In some circles, it is said that we renew ourselves in 7 years, but it depends on the tissues, some never renew and others renew quickly. The skin renews itself super fast, it's a matter of days.
When there is something that slows down the degradation process like a collagenase inhibitor, then by default, it will facilitate reconstruction: the anti-wrinkle effect.
For example, a child's skin: it's toned, it reddens, it's made to function well because it's always in balance, and children are growing until after the age of 25. Biology is considered to evolve around the age of 25. At that time, it's more in development than in recycling, you're growing. 25-35 is the plateau. 35, we start to age. The older we get, the more – destruction vs. construction – the more the tendency is towards destruction and that's when it takes a little help to restore balance. Taking hydrolyzed collagen will stimulate the construction enzymes, not make more enzymes, but make more tissue, because we're giving more nutrients. The limiting factor is a bit like the weak link, if just one thing is missing, there's something wrong. When we give it too much, the body reacts "I can do more than that", so it reduces the breakdown and increases the synthesis.
And when you add a degradation enzyme inhibitor (i.e. rosehip) it does the same thing. It rebalances to varying degrees because it's clear that if you're wrinkled like a 90-year-old apple, you can't promise to return to the skin of a 15-year-old child.
To read and discover:
My “3 secrets and 3 revelations” to regain your oval, skin density and erase wrinkles
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