Cocoa - Studies and Benefits for the Skin
Cocoa beans come from the pods; the fruits of the cacao tree whose Latin name is Theobroma cacao.
Cocoa has countless virtues, here are a few concerning the skin.
The data presented in this study clearly showed that the components of cocoa have important functions on the skin:1
- Antioxidant
- Anti-inflammatory
- Photoprotective
A study evaluated the influence of cocoa polyphenols on several indicators of skin elasticity and tone, namely glycosaminoglycans and collagen I, III, and IV. This was achieved using a model of human skin explants ex vivo maintained in survival, on which a cocoa polyphenol extract was applied. After treatment with standard histological techniques, the influence of cocoa polyphenols on the evaluated parameters was quantified through image analysis. The results obtained show that cocoa polyphenols have a positive effect on the evaluated parameters, and the dose at which they most improve the parameters associated with skin tone and elasticity has been determined.2
Another study demonstrated that long-term ingestion of flavanol-rich cocoa offers photoprotection against UV-induced erythema and improves skin condition in women. Two groups of women consumed either a high-flavanol cocoa powder (326 mg/day) or a low-flavanol cocoa powder (27 mg/day) dissolved in 100 ml of water for 12 weeks. Epicatechin (61 mg/day) and catechin (20 mg/day) were the main flavanol monomers in the high-flavanol drink, while the low-flavanol drink contained 6.6 mg of epicatechin and 1.6 mg of catechin as the daily dose. Photoprotection and skin condition indicators were measured before and during the intervention. After exposing selected skin areas to 1.25 times the minimum erythemal dose of radiation from a solar simulator, UV-induced erythema significantly decreased in the high flavanol group by 15% and 25% after 6 and 12 weeks of treatment, respectively, while no changes occurred in the low flavanol group. The ingestion of flavanol-rich cocoa resulted in an increase in blood flow to the skin and subcutaneous tissues, as well as an increase in skin density and hydration. The evaluation of the skin surface showed a significant decrease in skin roughness and desquamation in the group consuming flavanol-rich cocoa compared to those whose powder was lower in flavanols.3
The study mentions that dietary flavanols from cocoa contribute to endogenous photoprotection, improve cutaneous blood circulation, and affect skin surface and hydration variables from a cosmetic perspective.
In this another study 4, cocoa pods were extracted and used as active anti-wrinkle ingredients in a gel. Cacao pods potentially contain antioxidant compounds; these compounds are linked to protecting the skin against wrinkles and can be used as functional cosmetic ingredients. This gel was tested by 12 people to determine its effectiveness in reducing skin wrinkles and improving skin condition.
They found that cocoa pod extracts contain malic acid, procyanidin B1, rosmarinic acid, procyanidin C1, apigenin, and ellagic acid, all of which may contribute to its properties. The results showed that cocoa pod extract is a potential ingredient for reducing wrinkles. The skin wrinkles were reduced by 6.38 ± 1.23% with the application of the gel over 3 weeks and further improved significantly (12.39 ± 1.59%) after 5 weeks. Skin hydration increased (3.181 ± 1.06%) after 3 weeks of gel application.
They concluded that the extract, non-toxic to skin cells:
- Helps reduce skin wrinkles
- Can be used as an active ingredient in anti-wrinkle products
- A prolonged application can lead to significant visible changes to the naked eye.
References :
1. Giovanni Scapagnini, Sergio Davinelli, Laura Di Renzo, Antonino De Lorenzo, Hector Hugo Olarte, Giuseppe Micali, Arrigo F. Cicero, and Salvador Gonzalez. Cocoa Bioactive Compounds: Significance and Potential for the Maintenance of Skin Health, Nutrients. 2014 Aug; 6(8): 3202–3213. Published online 2014 Aug 11. doi: 10.3390/nu6083202 PMCID: PMC4145303 PMID: 25116848.
2. Gasser P, Lati E, Peno-Mazzarino L, Bouzoud D, Allegaert L, Bernaert H. Cocoa polyphenols and their influence on parameters involved in ex vivo skin restructuring. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2008 Oct;30(5):339-45. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00457.x. PMID: 18822039.
3. Heinrich U, Neukam K, Tronnier H, Sies H, Stahl W. Long-term ingestion of high flavanol cocoa provides photoprotection against UV-induced erythema and improves skin condition in women. J Nutr. 2006 Jun;136(6):1565-9. doi: 10.1093/jn/136.6.1565. PMID: 16702322.
4. Abdul Karim A, Azlan A, Ismail A, Hashim P, Abd Gani SS, Zainudin BH, Abdullah NA. Efficacy of cocoa pod extract as antiwrinkle gel on human skin surface. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2016 Sep;15(3):283-95. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12218. Epub 2016 Apr 4. PMID: 27041391.
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